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Here are some tips on what you can do to your MR4TC to improve its performance:

Click here to see my setup guide.

Tosolini Type Rear Suspension

Cut down the rear hubs to 30 mm and drill a hole for the ballstud. This will generate more grip. You can use all the holes in the two upper rows of the shocktower. Most grip with the link in the inner upper hole (link as long as possible).
You can further adjust the rollcenter by putting spacers under the ballstud.

King pin ballend

Front suspension modification used by Chris Tosolini (see setups)

Parts needed:

King pin ballstud - part #  ZR-007F
Long Losi ballends 

Caster block - part #  ZM-413 (if you cut the original link mounting horns )

12x6 ball bearings for the wheel axle

Smoother and much longer life when using 12x6 wheel axle bearings compared to the original 10x6 bearings.

Parts needed: 

Front steering blocks - part# ZM-415SH
Front ballbearings - part# BB-126N-4
Rear hubs - part# ZS-415RH0 (0 deg toe), ZS-415RH1 (1 deg toe), ZS-415RH2 (2 deg toe)
Rear ballbearings - part# BB-126-4 

MR4TC Special tips:

Under some conditions the new MR4TCSP chassis has been found to be a bit over responsive, twitchy, when using the same setups as on the older car. To get rid of this, and make the car easier to drive, change these things from the standard setup:

- use 2 deg rear hubs 
- use green rear springs
- use no rear roll bar

For Masami's latest standard setup go here.

Tip #1 

  • Cut the top deck so that it can flex. Obviously Yokomo now have the Worlds spec top deck available, but you can also make your own out of the original one with a bit of dremeling. The Worlds spec one also do not have as much cut out as the factory drivers usually run so you can cut away a bit more from that also. One thing you should remember is that you should NOT countersink the top deck since that can twist the chassis which will cause problems.

Tip #2 

  • Turn your servo 90 degrees to make the steering is symmetrical. This will help to allow the chassis to flex more evenly.
With these changes you will gain steering and rear traction, 
as well as making the car more consistent to drive. 
(Personally i like my car with these mods, but I'm not sure they will work
 so well at really high-grip conditions, i.e. on carpet with foam tires)

I only recommend experienced drivers to try the above mods.

Tip #3

  • The standard plastic A-arms will also make the car feel more consistent compared to the graphite ones and give the car a bit more steering.

Tip #4 

  • You can also remove the middle post (where the battery bar goes) when you cut the upper deck; this will also allow more flex. If you do this you can use tape to fasten the battery. Or, you can make your own battery holder out of the TC3 battery bar plus two aluminum posts. This system will also hold your packs more securely than the original battery bar. (This tip is not for the MR4TCSP)

click the image for a bigger picture

Tip #5

Mount the rear link to the bulkhead by using ~22mm screws. 
Place a small diameter shim on the screw and thread it through 
the ball (at the inner end of the rear link) and then thread it 
through the bulkhead where the shorter screw went before. 
(See the pictures to understand what I mean) 
This will give you a more stable and secure rear end, 
in other words more rear grip. 
Mount the link to the front of the rear hub.

Here are some tips on building the differentials on your MR4TC: 

  • Use black grease on the head of the diff screw before you place the thrustwasher over it. 
  • Apply enough black grease on the thrust bearing assembly. 
  • Hold the diff vertically while you build it (one outdrive facing upwards and the other downwards)
  • Tighten the diff screw a little, the spin the outdrives, then tighten etc. 
  • Don’t set your diff too tightly, just tight enough so that it won’t slip.

Transponder mount

There are a few different ways to mount the transponder on your MR4TC. Here we show you the most common ways.

                       1.  The most obvious way is to use the newYokomo transponder mount, part#: ZS-TPH 

                       2.  For this you need the Kyosho part SP-106. This is actually a "battery holder set" for the 
                       Kyosho TF4R car, but the transponder mount is also included. You can mount this in a few 
                       ways, but you will need to drill a hole in the chassis and countersink it.

                       3.  You can also mount the transponder on the right side of the chassis, behind the batteries. 
                       The easiest way here is to make a small transponder mount out of lexan. Here shown on Davis 
                       Spashetts Euros winning car.

1.                              2.                         3.

Yokomo Spring List

TC springs (g/3mm)
YS-1360 Black (519g) 
YS-1355 Blue (561g) 
YS-1465 White (591g) 
YS-1460 Hot Yellow (690g) 
YS-14575 Hot Pink (703g) 
YS-1455 Hot Green (738g) 
YS-14525 Stainress (692g) (different material)
YS-1450 Hot Orange (949g) 

GT4 springs
YS-1560 Dark Green (870g) 
YS-1660 Red (982g) 
YS-1655 Yellow (1210g) 
YS-1650 Green (1335g) 
YS-1760 Silver (1389g) 
YS-1755 Gray (1416g) 
YS-1750 Brown (1722g) 

All of these springs can be used on both the MR4TC and GT4.

Spring comparison chart:

      AE TC3 -> <- Yokomo

Copper 25 lbs. -> 

Red 22 lbs. -> 
                       <- Orange
Gold 19.5 lbs. -> 

Blue 17 lbs. -> 
                     <- Green
Silver 14.5 lbs. -> 

Green 12 lbs. -> <- Yellow

Seems like a lot of people are having a hard time trying to find some Yokomo stickers. Well, here are a couple of part numbers for some great looking Yokomo stickers:

 Click here to see a good insert chart


If you have any tips, please mail them to me: